Sunday, December 7, 2008

New Adventures in America, Part 2, or a Case for Universal Pedestrian Rights

Hello again from the USA, as I continue my re-immersion into American life! Some of my recent epic adventures have involved getting around my hometown in North Carolina without the aid of a car, both on foot and by using public transportation. It's funny how one comes to take for granted the simple conveniences of more developed urban areas, especially when one is accustomed to life in European towns and cities. Take sidewalks and pedestrian crosswalks for example; the essentials of modern pedestrian infrastructure. In Germany, I observed these simple conveniences to be both uniformly available and absolutely mandatory. Anyone crazy enough to jaywalk in Germany, for example, risks a run-in with the Polizei as well as the wrath of his fellow citizens. When I was new to Germany and had not yet been properly "Germanized", I sometimes failed to pay proper heed to pedestrian traffic rules when crossing streets. Inevitably, I got more than the occasional earful from elderly Germans who would shout "Hallo, hallo!" while angrily pointing at the "don't walk" signal (or that little red guy). I eventually learned the importance of standing and waiting for the "walk" light before crossing, for however long it took to change, no matter what time of day or night or level of traffic. In time I could be seen at 3:00 AM on a deserted street, with no traffic or life of any kind to be seen, dutifully waiting. I can't count the number of times I missed appointments or had to call my boss, the Mullet Master of Financial Services, to say that I couldn't make it to work because of yet another broken crosswalk light that wouldn't allow me to cross the street (which unfortunately separated me from the workplace). "Pay heed thee evil one", I would say to the steel-haired demon boss through my cell phone, "No evil, and no mullet power of Hell, shall bring me to cross this holy street on red!" It's the principle of the matter, really. And to their credit, the Germans understand the fact that, once people stop respecting pedestrian traffic rules, the whole fabric of society can and will unravel with riots and mayhem as an inevitable consequence.

Now as I attempt to walk from my neighborhood into the center of downtown Asheville, I regret that I don't see as much of my friends, the little "walk" and "don't walk" guys. When I walk through major commercial districts where tens of thousands of people pass through each day in their cars, the sidewalks often seem to have been installed as an afterthought, or as mere architectural flourishes, if at all. Oftentimes I find myself walking on roads' shoulders with cars and SUVs fuming past just inches away, with nothing to walk on but dirt, grass, and discarded McDonald's refuse. Sometimes when I find myself on an actual sidewalk and approach an intersection, where logic would dictate the presence of a crosswalk, I find nothing but a near impenetrable wall of traffic. This is unfortunately more common than not outside of downtown. As a result, pedestrians must navigate some fairly hazardous intersections at their own risk, without so much as the benefit of a painted line. One must often watch the very same traffic lights that drivers follow, and make mad dashes across intersections while the drivers are sitting distracted by red lights. Needless to say, this can be quite dangerous at larger intersections and where drivers aren't accustomed to watching for pedestrians (which is most places, most of the time). It occurred to me on one such occasion recently that when I was a kid, I actually assumed that it was illegal to cross such streets, as the city planners obviously hadn't intended for people to cross without a car. I would cross such streets in fear of both the traffic and the police. I'm encouraged now to see that more sidewalks and crosswalks exist around Asheville than were here when I first moved away, but there's still a disappointing lack of progress toward what I will call "Universal Pedestrian Rights".

The exception is in the downtown historic and commercial districts, where tourists spend most of their time (and money). The downtown area is immensely popular with tourists, and little expense has been spared in improvements there for their sake. Don't get me wrong, I think it's good to attract some tourists. They bring money to the local economy, and downtown has received quite a facelift in recent years. But in the end it seems that the majority of the existing and permanent population here (most of whom live around the rural fringes of town) is neglected, while the local city government does everything it can to attract more tourist dollars and wealthy retirees. Asheville is, and has always been home to people of all socioeconomic stripes, most of whom are at the lower to middle end of the income scale. Median income for Asheville in 2007 was $37,000 annually (as opposed to $45,000 statewide). At the same time, the median house/condo value in Asheville was $198,000 (as opposed to $146,000 statewide). Yes, that's still pretty cheap to a lot of people, but keep things in perspective. The job market in Asheville stinks. It often seems like the only lucrative occupation in Asheville is retiree. Otherwise, people here work in service and healthcare industries that support the retirees and the tourists. Coupled with this absence of job market diversity is a disproportionately high cost of living. Building new, gated communities for a minority of wealthy transplants in the midst of a traditionally less-than-wealthy majority has the effect of increasing the costs of food and services for everyone. But I'm off on a tangent here. . .What I'm getting at is this: To our fearless leaders in municipal government, don't give Asheville another Starbucks. Give Asheville sidewalks, crosswalks, and things that really strengthen a community. It's time for cities here and all over America to remember the forgotten, downtrodden, and aboriginal casualty of urban life: The pedestrian.

So I got tired of dodging traffic as a pedestrian. Somehow during my time in Europe I came to take for granted that drivers would usually stop and yield the right-of-way, as it's understood that pedestrians have just as much right to occupy the street as they do, car or no car. I think the laws are about the same here in North Carolina, right? But after a couple of close calls recently, in which I was nearly run over at cross walks by drivers of Cadillacs from Florida, who seemed not to acknowledge my existence, I decided to try other means of transportation.

My next epic adventure involved a ride into downtown Asheville on the city bus. Okay, it might seem mundane to some. But after being accustomed to the mass transit systems in Germany, the local bus system here makes for an interesting comparison. As some may know, I spent most of my life before moving to Garmisch, Germany in Asheville, NC, or 17 years to be exact. During those 17 years, I rode the city bus exactly one time. This was partly because most people here rely exclusively on cars for getting around, especially in rural parts like where I grew up. But more importantly, riding the city bus was just lame. Even if there was a bus stop just inches away, nobody that I knew ever rode the bus, and to do so was considered unthinkable. My family and most of the families I knew where not wealthy by any stretch of the imagination. But to rely on the city bus was, to me and my friends and acquaintances, a sign of utter destitution. It was a well known fact that riding the bus could lead to a downward spiral to complete ruin. One day you would be riding the city bus, and the next you would be sleeping on a bus bench, covered with newspapers, and drinking a 40 Oz bottle of King Cobra from a paper bag for breakfast. So, for those of us still too young to drive, when given the choice between riding and walking for hours to get some place, we walked. In doing so, we avoided certain social death and complete alcoholic ruin. Needless to say, the one experience I had riding the bus at the age of 15 has been a dark, horrible secret that I've kept hidden from the world until now. It was a confused phase in my life during which I failed to understand the consequences my decisions. Yes, I once rode the Asheville city bus before I was old enough to drive! I apologize to my family and friends for the pain this revelation may cause. I hope I will not be judged too harshly, and I hope that my cool card will not be permanently revoked.

But as I get older, I become less concerned with image (which is convenient, because age also brings with it the realization that I might not be as cool as I once thought). It was with this new maturity that I embarked one afternoon last week for an appointment with destiny: I went to catch the bus going downtown. All I had to do was walk two miles to the closest bus stop, which brings me back to the interesting comparisons to be made between Asheville's and Garmisch's bus systems. A notable difference is the fact that no bus schedules are ever posted at the bus stops here. So I stood there for a while at the bus stop, which was actually no more than a rectangular sign bolted to a post on the side of the road. There was no bench, not even a curb to sit on. As I stood at the bus stop contemplating how long I might wait (one hour, two? I had no idea), I saw a teenaged girl walk out of her front door and onto a porch across the street. I asked her, "how often does the bus come through here?" With an apologetic shrug of her shoulders she said "I have no idea", and continued talking on her cordless phone, presumably about ". . .like, this homeless-bus-rider-type of guy who's totally out in front of the house at, like, that creepy bus stop thingy. You know, I bet he's totally on his way to score some Boone's Farm!" I walked a little ways further down the street until I saw a woman checking her mailbox, smoking a cigarette. "Do you know when the bus comes through here?" I asked. She seemed a bit confused, and I believe it took her a minute to recall that there is indeed a bus stop ten feet from her mailbox. "Oh, yeah. You know, my daughter came home from college one time to visit, and she tried to ride that bus. . .hmm. . .I think I've seen it before, because I always come out here to smoke. I never smoke inside the house", she assured me for some reason, "But maybe it comes at a quarter 'till the hour." Her daughter was obviously quite the radical, but I couldn't tell for sure if she had actually succeeded in finding the elusive bus. Perhaps the bus was more of a local legend, whispered about over fence tops between superstitious neighbors, but never actually seen in real life. My phone's clock read a quarter past the hour. So I continued on, prepared to walk miles to the nearest internet cafe. Luckily I was only a couple of hundred feet down the road when the bus pulled up. As I ran back, the woman also ran back down her driveway, waiving her arms and yelling at the driver, pointing in my direction with the cigarette in her hand. I wonder if the driver was freaked out, having seen so few people ever actually needing him to stop.

Considering how little the buses seem to be used in relation to the population density here, bus services turned out to be fairly cheap. A one-time ride costs $1, and an annual pass for Asheville and the surrounding area costs $120. The only problem is that the last bus going back to my part of town leaves the downtown transit station at 6:00 PM. There is an actual "night bus", but the last "night bus" leaves downtown at 8:30 PM, and still leaves me no closer to home than 45 minutes by foot. Speaking of which, I need to catch that bus because it's leaving soon.

More later. . .

Friday, December 5, 2008

New Adventures in America

Greetings to friends back in Garmisch, Germany, who I will miss as I start a new phase in life back in the USA! Jen, per your suggestion, I will attempt to document a few of my experiences for your amusement, shock, or abject horror. The following is the beginning of a log of this one person's culture shock. . .or an account of one ex-expat's attempt to reintegrate into US culture after spending most of the past eight years abroad in Germany.

As the economy back home in the US sank deeper into recession, as 2 million jobs vanished nationwide (500,000 in November alone), and as unemployment levels approached 7% at the end of 2008, I decided that one couldn't choose a better time to leave a comfortable and secure (if mind numbing) job in financial services, to seek new opportunities back home in America. And so. . ."Behold demon Mullet Master of Compliance!" said I to the steel-haired banking overlord, "Your bible has no power over me and your evil shall forever be contained in Air Force retirement purgatory!" And with that, the steel-haired demon let out a terrific and bone-chilling shriek that opened up the ground, drawing into it the demon and it's Gray Volvo Chariot of Mediocrity, back to the depths from which it had been spawned. The spell was then broken and I was free to go. Goodbye Garmisch!

I made it to Asheville, NC with no problems. I am now looking forward to four weeks at my parents' house, catching up with family and some old friends from school, and preparing for the Next Great American Epic Job/School Search 2008-2009? My German immigrant cat, Attila, actually seems to be enjoying staying in the bedroom where I now sleep. He seems aware that the only alternative to his confinement would be to engage in territorial Mortal Kombat with the 400 or so other cats that live in and around my parents' house. As it is, he has sufficient windows to watch the world out of, so he hasn't made any attempts to escape. His only hope to rebuild the prominent stature he once enjoyed in Germany will be to find other German cats with which to form alliances, and to eventually build a New World crime syndicate based on catnip and weapons trafficking, racketeering, and feline prostitution rings. I wish him the best.

The other day I got my first real dose of American greatness, witnessing the height in human evolution and all the things that make one proud to be an American. I visited (one of) the local Super Wal-Mart store(s) here with my mom. It is a sprawling 46-acre complex of concrete, steel and plastics, with all the one-stop shopping and eating opportunities that one could ask for (so long as your only asking for McDonalds or this weird, dribbly chain restaurant called "Cheddars"). When I first left Asheville eight years ago, the future Super Wal-Mart site was occupied by a large, abandoned textiles bleachery plant that had been considered unusable, uninhabitable and undevelopable except at a huge projected cleanup expense, due to it's alarming levels of soil toxicity and perhaps also the open tanks of toxic waste that seem to have been misplaced there for decades. Whoops! The site had remained abandoned and off-limits throughout my growing up as a sort of post-apocalyptic wasteland, a huge and creepy symbol of the unfettered and unregulated 20th century industry, hulking menacingly in sight from the I-240 Bypass. Then a few years back, Wal-Mart managed to clean up the site, I believe, by physically removing the contaminated soil. I'm not sure exactly where they put the toxic soil, probably on a new K-Mart parking lot somewhere. Anyway. . .

Among the many impressive specimens of the height in human cultural evolution that can be found at this Super Wal-Mart store, I saw a 35-year old woman who was so fat that she had to shop for her Ho Hos and Wonderbread with the aid of an electric scooter. She wore one of those Blue Tooth earpieces, as a lot of people here seem to be doing nowadays. I don't know if she was expecting an important call from the Secretary of Defense at any minute and therefore needed her hands free, or if her arms were simply too heavy to lift a cell phone. I suspect the latter.

We then visited Aldi, which came as a comforting sight to me, after having shopped there often in Germany. While there, we purchased some fine European beer. It was abrand of Pilsner called "Bavaria", proudly claiming on the label to be brewed in Holland. God Bless America!! It's good to be home. More later. . .